Zokoko: The local Chocolate artisans winning international acclaim

Whether you’re a chocolate lover seeking something a little more refined in the post-Easter aftermath, or a fan of unique, artisanal processes that create a high-quality product you can sample in a cosy café, you might not be aware of the world-class chocolate being made on our doorstep, at the foot of the Blue Mountains in Emu Heights. 

But once you discover what Zokoko has to offer, you might never go back to 'normal' chocolate again.

SIMPLE ORIGINS

Zokoko has reached some impressive heights in recent years, but the business started as an idea in 2004, when Michelle Morgan and her coffee-roasting husband Dean were on a work trip to central America. 

“My husband had been a coffee roaster for years, and we were visiting Central America sourcing some green coffee,” recalls Michelle about the light-bulb moment that started it all. 

“I really wanted to go to this place, a sloth sanctuary on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. It was one of the most serene places I’ve ever been.” 

“While we were there we noticed cacao everywhere, growing wild on the side of the road. We grabbed some pods and opened them up. 

“That was the moment I knew I wanted to make chocolate.”

The path from wanting to doing is rarely straightforward, requiring dedication and education - not to mention a significant career change.  

“It was 10 years of hard work and study overseas - because there was nowhere in Australia to really learn how to make chocolate back then,” Michelle continues. 

“I used to be a landscape architect, so it was quite a change. I always considered myself a bit of a foodie who enjoyed what I thought was good chocolate, but you discover so many more layers to it. You never stop learning.” 

Having already enjoyed success in the world of coffee, Dean and Michelle’s knowledge of production from the source proved valuable in the transition to a new venture.

“They’re both a fermented product and dried, and they’re both roasted - but they’re roasted differently and on different equipment,” Michelle says. 

“Our cacao requires a slower, lower roast - you have to be gentle with it. But overall there are similarities.”

RAISING THE BAR

Zokoko prides itself on an artisanal bean-to-bar process - sourcing directly from farmers all over the world and embracing a detailed procedure that enhances and embraces the natural flavours of the cacao bean, providing a huge point of difference from the large-scale manufacturers. 

“We generally call ourselves ‘craft’ chocolate makers as opposed to industrial, large scale,” Michelle says. 

“We do everything in small batches, whereas they can do tonnes per hour on a factory line. 

"We source a product that can change from year to year based on how the crop was. Everything that’s happened locally is going to affect the end product. What’s important is that we preserve the flavours that are naturally in the bean  - industrial chocolate is quite flat and monotone by comparison. 

“It’s about having knowledge of where the cacao is grown, who the farmers are and who everybody is in the chain - from the very beginning through to the consumer. That’s what we’re about.”

Zokoko doesn’t just source from one country, or even one continent. They take a truly global approach that enhances their variety and provides teachable moments. 

“We’re working with growers in the Solomon Islands, Tanzania, and my husband (Dean) has been to Bolivia a couple of times to meet the farmers involved in the beans we source there.

“It’s very much like (wine), you can make something sourced from a particular area that’s going to have a taste that’s reflective. That’s what we celebrate and educate people about.”

As well as the differences in country of origin, Michelle and Dean’s artisanal approach gives them further opportunities to create truly unique flavours. 

“The way the beans are fermented will give you different results from the same bean,” Michelle says. 

“It’s going to impact the flavour and mouthfeel and the entire end product, based on what we’re doing at every stage.” 

With more local chocolate makers following the Morgans into the artisanal market in recent years, consumer knowledge is also developing.

“It’s really growing, which is in line with people’s knowledge about coffee, wine and cheese. There’s a lot of interest in the artisan approach and the whole story, to learn about the product you’re consuming.” 

“As people become more aware they say ‘you’ve spoiled me, I can’t go back to the supermarket now because I know what good chocolate tastes like and how amazing it can be.

"Once you realise there’s a whole world of chocolate you can explore, it’s exciting.” 

STAYING GROUNDED

It’s hard to talk about a small business that has succeeded in recent times without discussing the impacts of Covid. Like many, Zokoko was forced to adapt to the new way of doing things.

“We had to pivot and change as much as we could to keep things going,” Michelle says.

“We were exporting to the USA at that stage and that fell down because the sheer cost of the freight became ridiculous. 

“We also lost hotel customers as that industry slowed. But we had more hamper companies sending kits out to people featuring our chocolate. We lost on one side but gained on some others. It was tough and stressful, but we survived.”

While Covid threw up some challenges, in the years before and following the height of the pandemic the business has continually grown and gained prestige. As well as increasing demand for the chocolate and a successful cafe on-site, Zokoko has also excelled on both the local and world stages, consistently winning awards at the highest levels. 

“The Cafe showcases the bars we do, from single origins to other flavour inclusion bars, as well as our confections and chocolatier work. We bake a small range of treats in-house, all made in the premises.”

“Our awards have been mostly international. The most recent was last year in London at the Academy of Chocolate Awards - we picked up a gold, silver and bronze for our bars. That’s an international competition against some of the best craft makers all over the world.”

With so much acclaim and after an unprecedented Easter period, you could forgive the Morgans for wanting to rest on their laurels a while before the next wave of Mother's Day business - but that's the last thing on their mind. But from upcoming products that can't be revealed to long-term plans for the growth of the factory, the only way is up for this unique (and delicious) local success.

Zokoko Chocolate can be found at Unit 3, 84-90 Old Bathurst Rd, Emu Heights, right at the foot of the Blue Mountains, where they also run a delightful café with delicious coffee. You can also find them at a number of interstate holiday locations, independent local retailers like Sinclairs at the Log Cabin in Penrith, and a select number of Woolworths stores.

You can also ORDER ONLINE from their extensive range - but be advised, they sell out FAST.

ACADEMY OF CHOCOLATE AWARDS 2022

GOLD (Dark Bean to Bar Flavoured): Zokoko Orange and Anise Myrtle
SILVER (Milk Bean to Bar): Zokoko Mbingu Milk Chocolate
BRONZE (Milk Bean to Bar Flavoured): Zokoko Sea Salt and Tasmanian Pepperberry